Overlooked, misjudged – but cooperatives hold the key to a sustainable future for wine

What do a group of 19th-century mill workers from Rochdale and a German farm worker born in 1818 have to do with the wine that you might be drinking this week?

While the former is not known as the epicentre of the wine industry, Rochdale is widely credited as being the birthplace of the modern-day cooperative movement – as a result of the ambitions of a group known as “The Rochdale Pioneers”. The principles that were established nearly 200 ago thrive around the world to this day. The latter refers to Friedrich Wilhelm Raiffeisen, who founded the first “credit union” in Germany in 1862.

The actions of these dynamic and forward-thinking people have had a major bearing on the shape of wine production in Europe for over a hundred years. I am, of course, talking about the wine cooperatives, the historic backbone of the European wine industry, and where I believe a bright future lies.

But what is a wine cooperative? Simply, it is a collective of growers (members) who sell their grapes to the cooperative, who are then responsible for making the wine, and often bottling and selling it, too. The ethos of the cooperative, similar to that of the Three Musketeers, “one for all, and all for one”, means a sharing of tools, equipment, knowledge, and expertise, creating a new form of social structure in wine production.

Their importance can’t be overstated – the first winemaking cooperative was formed in Ribeauvillé, Alsace, in 1895, when they were annexed by the Germans and the growers were struggling, having lost their pivotal French market. Many followed, including the first French cooperative in the Languedoc region, Les Vignerons du Pays d’Ensérune, which was established in 1901. The movement boomed across Europe, especially in France, Italy, and Spain – in the Languedoc region, cooperative-produced wines still account for two-thirds of production.

But the reputation of these organisations hasn’t always been a positive one. They don’t really conform to the romantic image of wine. The brutalist architecture of many cooperatives is not in keeping with the bucolic vision of a charming château or cypress tree-lined avenues leading to Italian villas. But when I visit wine regions, I always seek them out – I see them as a fascinating experience to discover more about the grassroots of a region and their vision for the future of wine. These industrial structures, often with excellent 1960s typographic signage, are striking in what they symbolise.

Historically, production was focused on volume, with grape growers being paid for the quantity of their harvest and not the quality of their grapes. Wine consumption in France peaked in 1960 with 100 litres per capita being consumed annually. As a result, the cooperatives were focused on producing volume wines to serve a domestic market. But the picture is quite different today, with figures published by Statista showing the annual figure hovering around 47 litres per capita. As a result, for the cooperative to survive, they have had two choices: evolve or fold.

Due to the fundamental principles of the cooperative, where they are bound by seeking the best returns for their members and not shareholders, there is a drive to ensure a sustainable and strong future for wine production. The best cooperatives are often the drivers in reducing the usage of herbicides and pesticides, pushing for greater biodiversity and sustainability. They recognise that environmental sustainability is directly related to economic and social sustainability too.

So how do you find cooperative wines? Well, as the total volume of wine produced by cooperatives accounts for over 50 per cent of all French and Italian wine made, and an estimated 60 per cent of Spanish wine, you have likely drunk one without even knowing it.

Cooperatives really are the cornerstone of the wine industry and that should be celebrated more. So, while they may not be the glossiest kid on the wine block, they can offer outstanding quality and value – and I’d take that over a flashy estate any day. Want to discover more? Here are a small handful of some great cooperative-produced wines:

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Sainsbury’s £9.25, 12.5 per cent abv

Located in the foothills of the Pyrenees, Jurançon is one of the most beautiful vineyard regions of the world. The dynamic cooperative responsible for this wine was founded in 1949 and works with over 300 growers. A blend of gros and petit manseng, the wine has notes of soft ripe pears, baked apples and a citrus kick, on the palate, it’s generous with a touch of ginger – it would work beautifully with aromatic and lightly-spiced foods.

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Available nationwide in independents including Buon Vino, £9.75, 11 per cent abv

Producteurs Plaimont are one of the most internationally respected cooperatives that promote the use of indigenous varieties. Founded in the 1970s after merging three cooperatives, they are at the forefront of leading research into grape varieties that are suitable for the pressures faced as a result of climate change, helping their growers prepare for the future. They make a large range of wines, with the Lesc blanc being one of their entry-level whites – a blend of colombard and ugni blanc, this is a simple but uplifting wine, think aromas of citrus zest, crunchy green apple and spring orchard blossom – light, bright, breezy and fun.

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Available nationwide in independents including Hedonism, £23, 13.5 per cent abv

The Alto-Adige in northern Italy is a remarkable region, where over 70 per cent of the wines produced are from a cooperative. Cantina Terlano is widely regarded as one of the best cooperatives not only locally, but globally too. They have produced wines of exceptional, benchmark quality for well over 100 years. The region is famed for its whites, with weissburgunder, aka pinot bianco being one of the standout heroes of this mountainous vineyard area. This wine has an enticing nose of fresh lime, yellow apples and chamomile and I particularly love the mineral-saline edge on the palate. The mouthfeel is soft and generous – it would really appeal to a Chablis lover.

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Available nationwide in independents including Sip Wines, £18.30, 13 per cent abv

Valli Unite, a small Italian cooperative located in eastern Piedmont, was established in 1981 after three friends wanted to subvert a system that was encouraging people to leave their land uncultivated. They are a certified organic cooperative, making wines with minimal intervention – they also farm cereals and crops on their 100 hectares.

The Alessandrino Rosso is predominantly barbera with a little dolcetto and croatina. A vibrant and life-full wine that is bursting with ripe cherries, a wisp of smokiness, a wild rustic edge and a generous mouth-filling juiciness. It is a natural wine, and has been bottled unfined, unfiltered and with no added sulphur.

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Available nationwide in independents including Hop Burns & Black, £14.95, 14.5 per cent abv

Les Vignerons d’Estezargues is a marvellous cooperative located near to Avignon. Their members predominantly grow grenache, syrah and mourvedre. Since the mid-90s they had a clear vision to restrict the use of herbicides and pesticides, with a majority of their growers being fully organically certified. Les Oliviers is a generous blend of gorgeous grenache, syrah and mourvedre, and is an ample and inviting wine full of wild herbs, brambly redcurrants and blackberries with a twist of pepper.

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Available nationwide in independents including Stroud Wine Co, £27, 14 per cent abv

Revitalised by a priest who brought together 19 growers in 1958 (after a hiatus of many decades) Produttori del Barbaresco was established “to qualify and guarantee Barbaresco”. It is an outstanding example of the quality that can be achieved in cooperative wines, and was pioneering in sharing the profits according to the quality of the grapes provided, not the quantity, and having a deep understanding of their members’ vineyards.

The Langhe nebbiolo is the “entry-level” wine of the cooperative, but there is nothing basic about it. It is outstanding and full of the charm of nebbiolo, with delicate dried roses, wild strawberries, fresh cherries and an earthy undertone of autumnal forest floor. The tannins are fine, but give great structure to a wine that’s in its infancy.

Rosamund Hall (DipWSET) is a freelance writer, presenter and columnist specialising in wine and spirits as well as travel and lifestyle.