Think rosé’s just for summer? Think again – here’s what to drink in winter, too

When winter still feels deeply entrenched, as it currently does, there is only one wine that can lift us out of such a fug – rosé. Now, hear me out on this. Yes, it may be the perfect poolside tipple but it takes on a whole new level of loveliness in the coldest of months. So, if you usually restrict your rosé drinking to when the mercury rises, this is your sign to think again.

Most red wine or white wine lovers don’t restrict their enjoyment of these wines to a strictly seasonal level, so why is it that we do with rosé? I’m going to put it out there that for a long time, the reputation of rosé was not entirely a good one. It was made by winemakers who wanted to use up grapes from poor vintages and was best enjoyed chilled within an inch of freezing, so all aromas could be masked. And, if it wasn’t a dry style, it was likely to be an insipid sickly sweet zinfandel blush (full disclosure: I have, in the past, been known to love a glass of blush-zin. Be honest, we don’t all start by drinking the good stuff.)

Much like my tastes, the rosé category has certainly evolved and grown up. We’re now blessed with an array of drier styles, with appearances ranging from pale as water through to practically rouge and a complexity of flavours and geographical origins, too. There have, of course, always been those high-class rosés from the southern Provencal appellation of Bandol or the deep-coloured wines of the Tavel in the southern Rhone, a region that only produces rosé. But, and dare I say it, largely thanks to Whispering Angel, we as consumers have started to realise that there is more to rosé than cheap pink plonk. Whilst the phenomenon of the “Angel” doesn’t need any more column inches, it is worth acknowledging the spotlight that this brand gave to the category.

According to data released by the OIV (the International Organisation of Vine and Wine), the global rosé wine market has expanded dramatically over the past 20 years, driven by both increased demand and supply. Production jumped by 25 per cent from 2001 to 2021, and rosé’s share of global wine production rose from 6 to 7 per cent to more than 8 per cent. And here in the UK we can’t get enough of the stuff. Rosé consumption rose the fastest in the past two decades, only topped by our French neighbours, who are the market leaders of rosé wine consumption, accounting for more than a third of the market.

It would seem a shame that a wine that is enjoying such a renaissance is shut out in the cold for the majority of the year. Why would you actively choose to ignore a wine that can invigorate and energise at the exact time of year when all we want to do is collectively curl up under a giant weighted blanket? With a range of styles that can be a joyous accompaniment to so many foods and social occasions, why not welcome this friend in on these darker days? After all, a glass of delicious rosé can be a beautiful reminder of the lighter days that are creeping tantalisingly closer.

open image in gallery

Susumaniello... one of my favourite grapes to say out loud, it’s so soothing in its lyrical loveliness. It’s an ancient red grape variety from the area around Brindisi in the Salento region of Puglia. Historically it was generally used in blends but has been enjoying a touch more time in the spotlight as both a single varietal red and rosé wine. This example from M&S is a simple but highly enjoyable tipple with ripe berry fruits, a squeeze of blood orange and a delicate fresh finish. It’s a great switch if your happy place is crisp, dry whites.

open image in gallery

Owners Charles and Ruth Simpson should know a thing or two about great rosé as they also produce a rosé from their vineyards Domaine Sainte Rose in the Languedoc, a little to the west of Provence. Thankfully, they’ve seen the great potential in English rosé too. Simpsons’ Railway Hill is made from 100 per cent estate-grown pinot noir, from vines located near Canterbury, Kent – it’s both delicate and gastronomic all at once. Think ripe Kentish cherries and summer strawberries, white peaches, spring blossom and lemon-peel-bright acidity with a supple creamy finish.

open image in gallery

Provence is undoubtedly the spiritual home of rosé, so it would be remiss to exclude it from this list. A newcomer to the scene, Roseblood has an impressive roster of owners including Carla Bruni (and her husband), along with wine-making aristocracy Jean-Guillaume Prats of Château Lafite fame and Victor Joyeux, winemaker of Cloudy Bay. But this isn’t just a wine about fame, it’s a rosé of real substance. A blend of the famed grapes of Provence, grenache and cinsault with a splash of tibouren, it has inviting aromas of ripe strawberries and redcurrants, a slice of soft apricot and zesty-tangerine freshness – there’s also a delicate floral note of rose blooms after the rain, and a salty lick. Elegant and laidback, this rosé is very comfortable in its skin.

open image in gallery

A wonderful example of a wine that reminds you that rosé is not just about forgettable summer-sippers. A blend of corvina, trebbiano, syrah and carmenere all grown in the Veneto region of northern Italy, it has depth, concentration and complexity – but most importantly, it tastes great. There’s a gorgeous richness on the palate, which delivers fresh red currants and tart, alpine strawberries, all supported by aromas of wild oregano and rosemary tied together with a citrus pink grapefruit kick that leaves your mouth watering in the best possible way.

Rosamund Hall (DipWSET) is a freelance writer, presenter and columnist specialising in wine and spirits as well as travel and lifestyle