Michelin holds steady: 20 new one-star UK restaurants announced

The Michelin Guide Great Britain and Ireland awards delivered a night of consolidation rather than upheaval, with 20 new one-star restaurants and two new two-star establishments announced, while no new three-star awards were made.

The ceremony, held on Monday 9 February in Dublin, was presented by Lisa Hogan, best known for Clarkson’s Farm, alongside Amanda Stretton, the English racing driver and presenter. The international director of the guide, Gwendal Poullennec, paid tribute to Ireland’s food culture.

All 10 three-star restaurants in the UK retained their status, including Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, which continues to hold the highest accolade under new head chef Kim Ratcharoen.

Michelin’s star rankings are intended as a guide for diners rather than an assessment of luxury. One star denotes high-quality cooking, worth a stop; two stars signal excellent cooking, worth a detour; while three stars are reserved for exceptional cuisine, worth a special journey. In 2020, Michelin introduced the Green Star to recognise restaurants leading the way in sustainability, from sourcing and waste reduction to energy use and wider environmental impact.

Among the headline promotions were two restaurants moving straight into the two-star category. Jason Atherton’s Row on 5, led by Spencer Metzger, was elevated from one star to two for its refined, contemporary fine dining, while Bonheur by Matt Abé, which opened in November, entered the guide at two stars immediately. Bonheur is part of the Gordon Ramsay Restaurants group, and the promotion marks a notable moment for Abé, formerly head chef at Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, further extending the Ramsay stable’s presence at the upper end of the guide.

London dominated the new one-star list, with additions including Legado, where Nieves Barragán Mohacho delivers regionally rooted Spanish cooking; Somssi, offering Korean-influenced fine dining at Mandarin Oriental Mayfair; and The Kerfield Arms, signalling Michelin’s growing comfort with elevated pub formats. Gordon Ramsay High also picked up its first star just over a year after opening, further underlining a strong night for the Ramsay group

Beyond the capital, the guide delivered several long-awaited regional breakthroughs. JÖRO became Sheffield’s first Michelin-starred restaurant, recognised for its modern British, produce-led cooking. On the south coast, Mare, led by Rafael Cagali, secured Brighton’s first star in around 50 years, ending one of the guide’s most conspicuous geographic gaps. In Cornwall, Ugly Butterfly earnt a star for Adam Handling’s contemporary, sustainability-focused cooking overlooking Fistral Beach.

Ireland and Scotland were also well represented. In Galway, The Pullman, housed in restored Pullman train carriages at Glenlo Abbey, was awarded a star for Angelo Vagiotis’s modern fine dining, while Forest Avenue continued Dublin’s strong showing. In the Highlands, 1887 at The Torridon hotel picked up its first star alongside a Green Star for sustainability, and Killiecrankie House was recognised for its modern Scottish cooking in a rural setting. The Channel Islands added to their reputation for punching above their weight with a star for Vraic, a seafood-led restaurant rooted in island produce.

The evening also highlighted Michelin’s continued push to recognise sustainability, service and talent development. Seven new Green Stars were awarded, including to Knepp Wilding Kitchen in West Sussex and Forest Side in the Lake District, while Tom Earnshaw of Bohemia in Jersey was named Young Chef of the Year. Shwen Shwen in Sevenoaks took Opening of the Year alongside a Bib Gourmand, reflecting Michelin’s growing recognition of West African cooking in the UK.

While no three-star restaurants lost their awards, a total of 10 restaurants were deleted from the guide this year, the majority following closures. Two one-star restaurants – The Bridge Arms in Kent and Humo in London – lost their stars, both having ceased trading in their original form. Eight of the 10 deletions were the result of permanent closures over the past year.

Among the higher-profile closures were two-starred Claude Bosi at Bibendum, which shut last summer after failing to reach an agreement with its landlords, and La Dame de Pic at Four Seasons Hotel London at Tower Bridge, which closed in February after eight years. Belmond Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons in Oxfordshire was also removed from the guide following its closure in January for an 18-month redevelopment.

One-star restaurants to close in the past year included Crocadon in St Mellion, Five Fields in London, Dosa by Akira Back in London and Hjem in Hexham, while Pascal Aussignac’s Club Gascon lost its star ahead of its closure next month after 30 years of trading.

Gender representation remains a persistent issue. While several women were recognised among this year’s awardees – including Nieves Barragán Mohacho and Clare Smyth, whose more informal Corenucopia received a star – Michelin figures still show that only around 8 per cent of Michelin-starred chefs in the UK are women, a statistic that continues to shadow the guide’s progress.

In a year defined less by shock promotions than by steady affirmation, Michelin’s message was clear: British and Irish fine dining is holding its ground, broadening its geography and cuisines, and rewarding consistency, even if true upheaval remains elusive.