Stay up to date with notifications from The Independent

Notifications can be managed in browser preferences.

Postcard from... Montferrat

 

Anne Penketh
Tuesday 04 February 2014 20:00 EST
Comments

Your support helps us to tell the story

From reproductive rights to climate change to Big Tech, The Independent is on the ground when the story is developing. Whether it's investigating the financials of Elon Musk's pro-Trump PAC or producing our latest documentary, 'The A Word', which shines a light on the American women fighting for reproductive rights, we know how important it is to parse out the facts from the messaging.

At such a critical moment in US history, we need reporters on the ground. Your donation allows us to keep sending journalists to speak to both sides of the story.

The Independent is trusted by Americans across the entire political spectrum. And unlike many other quality news outlets, we choose not to lock Americans out of our reporting and analysis with paywalls. We believe quality journalism should be available to everyone, paid for by those who can afford it.

Your support makes all the difference.

The black puddings were coiled on a table, and served with chips. The spicy mulled wine had a hint of orange. But when Jean-Michel invited about 20 friends to his fête du cochon, to celebrate the slaughter of a pig, they were actually attending a semi-clandestine party.

The butcher was dressed in camouflage. On Friday night, he had slaughtered the pig which had been left to hang in the garage. By Saturday lunchtime, 144 saucissons were drying in the garage.

In the hills of Montferrat, 22 miles from Grenoble at the foot of the Alps, farmers traditionally used to slaughter one of their pigs in winter, when the cold helps to preserve the meat. But with a decline in local farming, Jean-Michel had bought his pig at a market. The blood – which must be cooked as soon as possible – was poured into gut casing and the blood puddings boiled in a vat.

But EU food hygiene laws are threatening the tradition. Pigs are supposed to be slaughtered in an abbatoir in most cases and their meat prepared in approved conditions. “Who knows how long the tradition will carry on?” said one guest. “The EU is killing it.”

So far the people of the Isère region are not deterred. Jean-Michel pointed to a man sipping mulled wine. “You see him? He’s having a fête du cochon next weekend,” he said.

Join our commenting forum

Join thought-provoking conversations, follow other Independent readers and see their replies

Comments

Thank you for registering

Please refresh the page or navigate to another page on the site to be automatically logged inPlease refresh your browser to be logged in