Elite grocery shuns 300-year tradition to open on Sunday

A small landmark in retailing history was reached quietly yesterday when the stately golden doors of Fortnum & Mason's food hall swung open for business for the first time on a Sunday.

For a discerning and wealthy clientele, the advent of Sunday opening at the speciality store in London's Piccadilly was a reminder of how even the most traditional firms must move with the times. Until 11am yesterday, Fortnum & Mason had remained closed on the sabbath since its foundation in 1707 by a royal footman, William Fortnum, as grocers for the country's elite.

Yesterday dozens of customers descended on the upmarket store to stock up on such delicacies as mousse of goose liver or Viennese coffee. They included one regular customer, Beverley Swindells, who described the shop's opening on the traditional day of rest as "a sign of the times".

Despite popping in for some shopping of her own, Mrs Swindells, 42, from Sheffield, expressed concern at the withering of Sunday's once sacrosanct status. "I think it's quite sad as Sundays ought to be traditionally spent with the family," said Mrs Swindells, who manages a steel company.

A spokeswoman for the store said the opening was merely "in keeping" with other shops in the area.