Ralph Lauren brings rugged romance to New York runway as Gigi Hadid opens AW26 show

Ralph Lauren reaffirmed his enduring grip on American fashion on Tuesday night, unveiling an autumn/winter 2026 collection that combined rugged romance with modern metallics – signalling a fresh direction for the 57-year-old brand.

Staged inside Manhattan’s Clock Tower building, the show transformed the Jack Shainman Gallery into a vision of the English countryside.

Hand-painted pastoral canvases lined the walls, antique rugs layered the floor and guests including Anne Hathaway, Lana Del Rey and Lili Reinhart watched from antique-style chairs as models strode past.

Supermodel Gigi Hadid, 30, presented the debut – and later the penultimate look – firstly in a wool corseted top and column maxi skirt, adorned with a silver chain belt that set the tone for a collection where metallic detailing mimicked armour against romantic silhouettes.

In his show notes, Lauren described his muse as embodying a “renegade spirit” and dressing with confidence in her own way.

On the runway, that translated into a careful interplay between softness and strength. Chainmail elements shimmered under tweed jackets, leather gloves toughened delicate knits, and silver chains and brooches punctuated rich wool.

The armour-like references à la Joan of Arc were evident throughout the collection, but it wasn’t purely pageantry, the show leaned into the codes that have defined Ralph Lauren since the brand was founded in 1967: elegant tailoring, equestrian influences and a cool, contemporary interpretation of country life.

Sturdy riding boots juxtaposed floor-length skirts, while slouchy knits were styled with sweeping evening skirts. A sharply tailored tweed blazer thrown over a strapless bead-embroidered gown gave a masterclass in high-low dressing.

Lauren’s team highlighted more than 50 custom-developed fabrics in the collection, many chosen for their tactile, textured qualities.

The emphasis was on craftsmanship and wearability rather than seasonal trends – a strategy that has long underpinned the brand’s commercial durability.

The show also arrived at a moment of renewed visibility for the American house.

Last month, Lauren made the unusual decision to stage a full menswear runway show in Milan, combining Purple Label and Polo, rather than opting for the presentation format he has favoured in recent years. The Milan show became the most-viewed men’s presentation of the season across both Milan and Paris, reflecting growing interest in the brand’s broader offering.

In November, Lauren was also named Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) Womenswear Designer of the Year, adding industry recognition to strong sales performance across categories.

Despite being 86, Lauren continues to operate outside the industry’s cycle of rapid reinvention. Instead, AW26 reinforced his longstanding aesthetic but with subtle adjustments.

Metallic accents provided edge, belts cinched both tailored suits and evening dresses, and shawls were fastened with oversized brooches, nodding to the biggest accessories trend of the moment.

Eveningwear was cinematic. A plunge-front gown with delicate chain straps required little embellishment and would not look out of place on an awards-season red carpet.

The collection overall demonstrated that refinement, rather than shock value, remains central to Lauren’s philosophy.

The broader context underscores the brand’s reach. Ralph Lauren was once again selected to design Team USA’s uniforms for the Winter Olympics in Milan – the sixth time the company has dressed American athletes for the Games.

David Lauren, chief branding and innovation officer, has described the duality of the brand: representing elite sport on a global stage while delivering high fashion in New York. It is, he suggested, an example of how an American company can operate across multiple cultural arenas.

In order to straddle these worlds, perhaps, Lauren has not disrupted his designs. Familiar silhouettes were refined rather than reinvented. Strength came through structure and texture rather than overt statements. The designer once again proved the value of consistency.

More than five decades after its founding, Ralph Lauren remains one of New York’s most dependable pillars and, judging by the reception to AW26, one still capable of commanding attention.