Annie’s brings florals, fringe and feathers to autumn/winter London Fashion Week

Annie’s delivered a rich display of vintage glamour at Spencer House during London Fashion Week, filling the neoclassical interiors with florals, feathers and high-shine embellishment.

Presented against a backdrop of marble statues, gilded archways and sweeping staircases, the collection embraced Annie’s signature: opulence.

Founder Annie Doble has built her brand on a love of rare vintage and enduring glamour. Born and raised in England, she began buying and selling vintage pieces as a teenager, eventually opening a boutique in Ibiza with just £200, calling it Annie’s Ibiza.

That small venture grew into an internationally recognised fashion destination, now known simply as Annie’s, Doble has regularly dressed celebrities including Kate Moss, Taylor Swift and Margot Robbie.

For this show, while much of the autumn/winter collections lean into dark palettes and heavy layering, Annie’s offered saturated colour and ornate detail, proving vibrant, statement dressing has a place even in February.

Floral hair accessories were a defining motif. Oversized crimson blooms were pinned into sleek updos and glossy curls, lending a romantic, almost flamenco-inspired energy to the looks.

Models strode onto the runway in richly patterned jacquards and brocades, their silhouettes sharply defined against the ornate cream background.

Texture played a central role. Tapestry-style florals in burnished orange, teal and gold were cut into high-necked dresses with sculpted shoulders, while metallic threads caught the light as the models turned.

Fringe and tassels added movement, with one look in particular combining a high-neck woven dress with swaying orange fringing that brushed across the bodice, reinforcing the brand’s bohemian tone.

Feathers, a recurring trend across runways this season, were given full theatrical treatment.

Voluminous feathered capes framed heavily embellished corsets, while fluffy trims exaggerated cuffs and shoulders.

A standout look featured a gold beaded corset gown paired with a dramatic feathered stole in blush and black tones, the texture contrasting with the rigid sparkle of the bodice beneath.

Another ensemble featured a cropped black velvet jacket with oversized shearling-style sleeves, worn over intricately embroidered briefs and lace tights – a juxtaposition of softness and structure.

Elsewhere, a nude illusion gown layered with delicate lace embroidery was topped with a pale feather collar, the detailing extending down the sleeves and into sheer panels that revealed ornate underpinnings.

Doble played with the relationship between exposure and embellishment: corsetry cinched the waist, while crystal beading and metallic thread work elevated traditionally intimate silhouettes into eveningwear statements.

The collection leaned heavily into Annie’s signature codes: vintage-inspired shapes, couture-level beadwork and a confident embrace of maximalism.

Gold lattice embroidery, jewel-toned floral prints and richly textured fabrics referenced antique upholstery and heirloom textiles, yet the cuts remained contemporary – high-cut briefs, sharply tailored jackets and structured bodices anchoring the historical references in the present.

In recent years, Annie’s has expanded into ready-to-wear, debuting on the London Fashion Week schedule in 2023. Sustainability underpins the label’s ethos, with limited production runs and a focus on craftsmanship designed to ensure longevity rather than trend-led turnover.

At Spencer House, that philosophy manifested in garments that felt considered despite their exuberance. Intricate hand-beading, carefully placed applique and densely worked embroidery spoke to hours of labour behind the scenes. Even the most theatrical pieces – from feathered capes to heavily embellished corsetry – retained a sense of precision.

The setting amplified the mood. As models moved through the grand rooms beneath sculpted ceilings and beside classical statues, the collection’s baroque influences felt at home.

The overall effect was immersive, as the audience was transported into a world of gilded romance, where florals bloomed in winter and feathers framed crystal-studded silhouettes.