Eleven things you don’t realise about Dubai until you’ve lived there

It’s a unique place to say the least. A destination boasting an eccentric blend of old meets new, where buzzy traditional souks and abras seamlessly blend with futuristic skyscrapers. It has the glitz and glamour. It’s home to Burj Khalifa, the world’s tallest building. It’s the emirate seemingly on everyone’s lips: Dubai.

It’s no secret that the UAE’s most populous emirate has now climbed to the top of Brits’ lists, not for five-star holidays, but to move to. Approximately 130,000 UK citizens live in the UAE, forming the largest Western community in the emirate. Data compiled from relocation firm John Mason International Movers saw a 420 per cent rise in inquiries and a 50 per cent increase for “move to Dubai” searches year-on-year.

This was the year Manchester United legend Rio Ferdinand swapped the UK for the Middle East, where he said, “The lifestyle means that they’re happy and vibrant with a good energy for the kids.” And most recently, Apprentice star Luisa Zissman made the permanent move with her children, five horses and nannies. As you do.

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Renowned for sunshine, safety and convenience, it’s easy to see why the dazzling desert metropolis is reeling Brits in – especially at this time of year. Undoubtedly, one of the biggest draws beyond the weather is the lax tax rules. As in no income tax – every penny you make, you keep. With the UK’s cost of living crisis showing no sign of slowing down, this kind of financial freedom (or survival) feels increasingly worth moving across oceans for.

But what’s it really like in the “City of Gold”? While it’s glitz on the outside, is it really as shiny on the inside? Here are the things you only know when you live there.

With so many Brits moving to Dubai, some may assume it’s easy to get a job. Wrong.

Hunting for a role in Dubai isn’t for the faint-hearted. The market is “competitive, relationship-driven and progressive”, according to Nicki Wilson, founder and managing director of Genie Recruitment, a Dubai-based recruitment firm.

“Dubai has evolved from being seen as a short-term lifestyle move to a serious long-term career destination for many,” Wilson says. “For British professionals in particular, Dubai offers exposure to regional and global markets far earlier in their career than in the UK, with people often working directly with founders and CEOs, which accelerates learning and decision making.”

That, coupled with tax-free income, means there are hundreds – if not thousands – going for the same role. “The reality is that Dubai remains a region where you need to work hard … this side of the story rarely appears in highlight reels. Many people arrive with rose-tinted glasses, then find it challenging to adapt to longer working weeks and a fast-paced environment,” Wilson says. “I have seen a huge amount of Brits where it has not worked out and they went back after six months. Dubai is not for everyone.”

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Grab your hiking boots because trekking is king during cooler months. The views of the mountainous wadis, rocky valleys formed over thousands of years, surround nearby Hatta. Hike to the peak and the vista will make your jaw drop.

From kayaking at Hatta Dam to camping in the desert and swimming in the Arabian Gulf at Kite Beach, free and open to the public 24/7, Dubai isn’t just cocktails on an expat’s terrace. It’s an interesting and active place. Need a buddy to go with? The wellness community is massive. A quick post on the “Brits in Dubai” Facebook page and you’re guaranteed to find an outdoorsy tribe.

Dubai loves a deal. From ladies’ nights with free-flowing drinks to buy one get one free bargains as seen on The Entertainer, you can live the high life on a budget.

And essentials like rent, transport and groceries are more reasonable than you might assume. When comparing UK versus UAE urban living, a two-bedroom apartment in London’s zone three will set you back over £2,150 per month in rent, according to the Office for National Statistics (ONS) data.

In Dubai, you can snag a two-bedroom flat in communities like Jumeirah Lakes Towers – just a stone’s throw from the Marina – for £2,000 per month, but double the size and with lush amenities like a pool, gym, parking spot and community play room for children if you have them. Cabs are cheap too. A journey from Dubai Marina to Dubai International airport, roughly 32km, sets you back roughly 90-120 AED (£18.33-£24.45). To go the same distance from Heathrow in an Uber is £50 minimum.

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Travelling through two Dubai Metro zones costs 7.50 AED (£1.53) compared to the Tube’s £2.90 off-peak and £3.50 during peak times. A budget-friendly weekly shop is also possible – Viva, the first UAE food discounter, which operates similarly to Lidl or Aldi, saves shoppers 25 per cent compared to other popular supermarkets.

No traffic? Love it. No reservation needed? Perfect. Summer in Dubai, typically from May to September, may have some perks. But is it worth hanging around? Probably not. Alfresco dining closes, many beach clubs shut, and streets are empty. With temperatures soaring to 50C, Dubai feels like a ghost town. Where’d everyone go? On their Euro trip or hiding inside, hugging the air con, of course.

A Gucci bag delivered in two hours (thanks, Ounass). Groceries in six minutes (thanks, Careem). Petrol to your car (thanks, CAFU). Convenience is unmatched. With a tap on an app, you can get anything in a dash.

Drive down Sheikh Zayed Road and you’ll see mobs of delivery drivers on mopeds, zooming around the city. Suddenly, Amazon Prime’s next-day delivery in the UK feels like a drag.

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Your car is washed while you shop, dry cleaning is picked up and delivered the same day and sand is swept off your sunlounger. But to keep up with the constant levelling up you need workers – and a lot of them. Many unskilled and skilled labour workers – think construction for those glittering skyscrapers – live in labour accommodation provided by the company. The room, some with three bunk beds for six people, is included in their monthly salary, which can be less than 2,000 AED (£407) per month.

With long hours and working in the heat, a tip goes a long, long way.

Parts of the city seen as “Old Dubai” are very much still the city’s beating heart for many residents, from its vibrant traditional gold and spice souks in Deira to Bur Dubai’s Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood.

You’ll learn about traditional Emirati pastimes like falconry, equestrian sports and desert experiences. Oh, and the food. You don’t want to miss it. During Ramadan, you’ll attend iftars, dress more modestly and be mindful of public fasting. In Dubai, while English is widespread, you will equally hear Arabic, the UAE’s official national language. “Yalla” and “inshallah” will make their way into your daily vocabulary. Tourists rarely leave their five-star resorts, and that couldn’t be more of a shame.

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In Dubai, “no new friends” is not a thing. Fellow expats welcome newbies with open arms, which can’t always be said about other big cities. If you know of a friend of a friend, a hangout will almost always make it out of the chat. In Dubai, everyone (unless you’re Emirati) was a newbie once and can relate to that new kid on the block feeling. When your blood family is a seven-hour flight away, your friends become your world. And you don’t take that for granted. The downside? You never know how long people will stick around. Just when you’re about to call them your “bestie”, they’re heading back to their home country or chasing dreams elsewhere.

They’re chilling in the streets of your neighbourhood. Hanging outside the corner shop. If you’re a cat dad or cat mum (or want to be), this is your place. If not, you’ll learn to love them. As Dubai is a transient place, it’s sadly not uncommon for pets to be abandoned. Cats are dumped on the street if owners need or want to move abroad – it can cost upwards of £3,000 to transport one animal abroad using a pet transfer service.

Thankfully, many communities come together to provide food, raise money for vet bills and find their forever homes.

When moving to a new house, there’s one essential to buy pronto if you don’t want to say goodbye to your long locks. A water filter for your shower. Dubai’s hard desalinated water combined with extreme heat, dehydration and poor air quality doesn’t do any favours to your hair, frequently leading to thinning or hair loss. Many new residents won’t realise this until they head to the hairdresser's in an attempt to bring back the gloss.

And if you’ve been on holiday, be sure to run the water for a few minutes before you jump into your first shower back. The water may or may not be slightly beige… yep, it’s sand.

If you can’t handle the heat, you’re in luck. Everywhere from beach clubs to outdoor restaurants, you’ll find big AC units blasting cool air in the scorching heat. Is it wasteful? Yes. Is it necessary? Absolutely.

With its safety, family-friendly attractions and pristine parks and playgrounds, it’s hard to fault Dubai when it comes to kids. With every sport or activity under the sun (yes, there is an indoor ski resort), travel hot spots only a shorthaul flight away and little friends from all over the world, it’s a one-of-a-kind childhood. But that lifestyle comes at a price. While fees for schools with a British curriculum are extremely varied, they’re typically steep. Mid-range schools can hover around the 15,000-20,000 AED mark (approximately £3,000- £4,000) per term.

Is it worth it? You decide.