EATING OUT: ST.JOHN'S: WHAT'S ON THE WINE LIST

Peter Lehmann Vine Vale Shiraz 1996, pounds 13

St John's could identify some of their wines better, but the list is manageable in length and very reasonable in price. Peter Lehmann's wines are always worth drinking, even when they're on the cheap side, like this one

Chivite Gran Fuedo Reserva 1994, Navarra, pounds 14

This excellent producer gives many Riojas a good run for their pesetas; most attractive red on the list, and with good bottle age

Ravents i Blanc Chardonnay Penedes, 1997, pounds 15

Raventos is Catalonia's Cava king, and a pioneer in the use of Chardonnay

alongside indigenous grapes. I haven't drunk this wine, but would make a beeline for it just out of curiosity