Inevitably, this celebration of Jennifer Paterson by 20 pals tends towards hagiography. Her priest notes that the "Fat Lady" died on the feast of St Lawrence, the patron saint of chefs (he was martyred by char-grilling). Anthony Blond notes: "Spending was not a concept she entertained." The best lines come from Jennifer herself: "I've had more faggots at my feet than Joan of Arc." She also provides the most memorable pages with nine of her "receipts". Potatoes Ruspoli is a sure-fire hit.
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